Common Lawn Diseases and How to Get Rid of Them
Ok, so I know you are freaking out about those “brown spots in your lawn.” In the Midwest, and especially the Ohio Valley, it could be anything from simple drought stress, to grub worms to the dreaded sod webworm or even a lawn fungus. This article will cover the lawn disease and fungus aspect of those nasty brown spots:
Lots of late spring rain coupled with temperatures in the high seventies and eighties set up the perfect breeding ground for many common lawn disease problems. Add in some humidity, and you have a “perfect storm” of lawn problems.
Some of the more common lawn fungus problems are rust disease, red thread, summer patch, and dollar spot. None of these will turn into serious problems if you are willing to do a little work and change some of your habits.
Since we can’t control the weather, we need to make effective choices in the cultural practices we can control. Mowing high and watering consistently, but deeply and never at night are just 2 of the best ways to help control lawn diseases. In addition, you should bag your lawn clippings when conditions are favorable for fungal development.
Granular fungicides available at your local home center will work to prevent a majority of disease problems, but timing is crucial. It is best to get an application down prior to any onset of disease in the turf, meaning you should get some down in later May or early June if possible. A second granular fungicide application will serve your turf well in July.
Nitrogen is also an important factor in keeping lawn diseases to a minimum. Proper amounts of soil nitrogen allow grass to basically, “grow through” the fungus problems before they become a problem. I never recommend quick releasing synthetic fertilizers, however, because they “push” the grass plants, causing too much top growth.
It is always best to use an organic product for lawns that releases nitrogen slowly and consistently over time. Organic lawn fertilizers come in many forms, but bio-organics tend to give better results.
The final step in ensuring minimum disease pressure in your lawn is to manage the thatch layer. Thatch is the layer of dead grass and leaves that all lawns have just above the soil line.
Some thatch is good as it keeps the turf’s roots shaded and maintains moisture levels, but too much will harbor disease. If your thatch layer is more than one-half-inch thick, it is time to aerate and reduce it. You can aerate your lawn at any time during the year, as long as your machine can pull a good plug. If you can’t aerate and your thatch is too thick, it’s time to break out the rake and get those elbows working!
Whatever you do, don’t panic! Turfgrass is very forgiving and tends to live through most anything. Just keep up your proper mowing and watering, and fertilize regularly to keep that lawn looking its best!